Centuries ago the narrow streets were quite dark, even under the Medieteranean sun; now the roofs have fallen in on the supports, letting sun hit large areas, defining slight hills and a subtle topography. Bleached dust covers most things and creeps up the pants. In the large gathering places, where it is especially open and bleached, packs of stray dogs, attracted by the tourist groups, attempt to avoid the sun by jamming themselves into the shadows of the crowd. They approach slowly, the less mangy appearing first, a welcome greeting in the midst of ruins and truncated pillars.

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